Home Contact Us Coper Pictures The Prototype Help / FAQ Guestbook

 

Home
Video Demo
How The Coper Works
How to Order
What's Included
Our History
The Coper Team
Our Guarantee
Search
Translate
Testimonials

 

 

Frequently Asked Questions

 

Frequently Asked Questions

*The Coper will work perfectly on your first cut almost all the time!  If you ever have a problem, hopefully these answers will help.  Remember that if you are not getting absolutely perfect corners, something is wrong and we want to help!  If you can't find the answer you are looking for here, feel free to email or call us anytime!

*The Coper will work on styles of baseboard and chair rail up to 6" in height and 1" in thickness. It will not work on crown molding (that sits at a 45) as that requires a compound cut.

What If I don't get a clean cut on the baseboard?

Can The Coper work on any baseboard?

Can The Coper work when my corner is more or less than 90 degrees?

What do I do when my baseboard does not fit well in a corner? 

How do I work around a room?

Can I go clockwise around the room?

How long does a mold template last?

Where can I get more Por-A-Kast?

 Where can I get additional router bits?

Is The Coper safe to use?

What do I do if my cut doesn't exactly match the baseboard?

How do I use The Coper if I need a 45 degree (outside corner) on the other end of my piece?

Will The Coper work on all types of wood?

Where can I get more foam backing?

How long will the router bit last?

How do I get the coped pieces to the right length?

*This page is always updated as more questions come in.

 GOOD ANSWERS

  1. What If I don't get a clean cut?  If you are not getting a crisp clean cut on your baseboard it is most likely because the router bit is getting old or dull.  You can solve this problem by purchasing a new router bit.  By letting the router bit do the work you usually get the best cut.  To clean up a cut with splinters, you should use a sharp knife or very fine sandpaper.  Do not sand the edge of the baseboard or it will create a gap in your corner.

    If you ever have a problem with the baseboard chipping near the top edge, make sure that you are cutting slowly and smoothly letting the router do the work.  Try using a new sharp bit in your router.  We highly recommend that when cutting baseboard with a fine top edge that you work around the room in a clockwise direction.  In this way you will start your cut on the detailed edge of the baseboard and you won't have any chipping at all.    In other words, this allows you to start your cut at the top edge rather than ending your cut with it where chipping occurs.

  2. Can The Coper work on any baseboard? Yes, The Coper will work on any baseboard up to 6" in height and 1" in width.

  3. Can The Coper work when my corner is more or less than 90 degrees?  Yes.  The Coper back cuts at about 2 degrees, so it will work in every corner.  If you ever find a corner where a larger degree of back cut is required, simply place a thin piece of wood or plastic (1/8") under the front of the board before you clamp it down.  This will angle the baseboard up to give you a greater back cut.   Some routers will allow you to tilt the base of it to create more back cut.

  4. What do I do when my baseboard does not fit well in a corner?   We guarantee that you will get a tight fit with all profiles. 

    If the profile of your cut does not match the profile on the matching board, look at question #11. 

     There are a very small percentage of baseboards that may have a curve which the router bit cannot fit into; this creates a very poor fit.  If you are having problems with a corner fitting properly, you should run the router bit over the template to see if there is a spot that it cannot fit into.  By lightly sanding this area with the round file provided, you will create space for the router bit and fix the problem.

     

    If the profile matches well, but doesn't seem to sit well when installed, it is usually because the corner does not have enough plaster behind it near the bottom of the wall.  This often happens when the taper fails to get enough mud in the bottom corners.  To solve this problem you can use the foam tape included in The Coper Package.  Simply place the required amount of foam on the base of the wall (about 1 inch from the corner)  to bring the bottom of the baseboard out to match the receiving piece.  When done correctly you will have a tight fit with no visible gap or separation from the wall.

     

  5. How do I work around a room?  We recommend that you always work around the room in a counter-clockwise motion.  To work in this direction you make the mold with the top of the baseboard placed against the stop of the molding tray.  However, if you prefer to work in a clockwise direction or you are using detailed baseboard (you want to start your cut at the top edge), you simply need to make a mold with the bottom of the baseboard placed against the stop of the molding tray.  Now you need a relief block to match the top edge.

  6. Can I go clockwise around the room?  If you prefer to work in a clockwise direction, you simply need to make a mold with the bottom of the baseboard placed against the stop of the molding tray.  Now you need a relief block to match the top edge.

  7. How long does a mold template last?  A mold will usually last for several jobs (100's of cuts).  To lengthen the life of a mold, let it totally cure prior to it's first use.  Also, ensure that you always let the router do the work of the cut.  By firmly pressing against the mold template you will decrease it's life.  We recommend that you make a few molds for each job, so that if something strange happens, you always have a back-up template.  Making the molds the night before your job begins will ensure that it has cured completely.

    If you ever need a template of a certain type of baseboard that you want to use over and over again (300+), job after job, here's the answer.  The first thing you do is make a template in the normal fashion and install it into The Coper, then you take a 6" strip of 1/4" plexi-glass (you can get plexi-glass from any hardware or glass store) and clamp it into The Coper.  Your first cut will create a new template in the plexi-glass.  It's your first cut, it's a fresh cut and it will be an exact replica of your template.  Take out the plexi-glass, cut it down to 2" drill a few holes in it and you have a plexi-glass template that will last forever. 

  8. Where can I get more Por-A-Kast?  You can order these products right here on our website.  You can also purchase these products from the location where you purchased The Coper. You can use Vaseline for additional wax.

  9.  Where can I get additional router bits?  You can order the correct bit right here on our website.  You can also purchase these products from the location where you purchased The Coper. You must use a 1/4" flush trim bit if you want to pick up the fine details of a baseboard.

  10. Is The Coper safe to use?  Yes.  The Coper is simply a jig which allows you to use your router in a fixed location on a secured piece of wood.  To use The Coper safely you should fully understand how your router works and operates.  You should always wear proper safety gear including safety glasses.  Whenever you use The Coper you should ensure that it is screwed to the table and that the baseboard is firmly clamped in place.  Never try to use The Coper on a piece of baseboard that is not long enough to fit under both clamps.  

  11. What do I do if my cut doesn't exactly match the baseboard?    If the coped edge does not line up, it could be because the template has shifted up or down.  When the baseboard is in The Coper, the top and bottom of the baseboard should line up with the mold.  If you need to shift the template more than the holes allow, you can create more space by drilling out the holes on the template.  Another reason a cut may not line up is because the baseboard you are using is from a different lot than the other pieces.  If it is significantly different, you may need to make a separate mold for it.  When you purchase baseboard it is a good idea to make a mold and bring it along to the lumberyard.  With the mold you can make sure that all of the pieces you buy are from the same lot.  This will also make matching your trim around your doors and windows a much easier task.

    If your cut still does not match the baseboard it is most likely because your mold template is getting old or because the template has been chipped.  If you removed the baseboard from the mold too early, it could cause the mold to shrink.  The best solution is to make a new template.  You can try to shift the mold template up or down a little in The Coper to correct minor differences.

  12. How do I use The Coper if I need a 45 degree (outside corner) on the other end of my piece?  To complete this you first use The Coper to create the inside corner.  You then place the baseboard into the corner and mark the other side.  You now cut the 45 degree corner on the mark and you have a perfect piece!

  13. Will The Coper work on all types of wood?  Yes, The Coper will work on all types and styles of wood.

14.  Where can I get more foam backing?  The foam backing in your kit is simply window and door seal.  You can get huge rolls of it at your local hardware store.

15.  How long will the router bit last?  The router bit should stand up very well as it has a carbide tipped bit.  You should always allow the router to do the work while making each cut.  You should also allow the bit to cool down between cuts.  Overheating can dull the bit and cause bearing failure.  You can extend the life of the bit on hard woods (example: maple) by first making a 45 degree cut on the board edge you need coped.  In this way the bit only needs to go through half the amount of hard wood.  The bottom line is that the bit will wear at the same rate as any other quality bit.  Our new bits come with an extra bearing. 

16.  How do I get the coped pieces to the right length?  There are two ways you can do this.  The simplest way is to cope the end you need, measure it and cut it.  That is a two step process.  An easier way is to measure from wall to wall, let's say it's 10ft exactly.  Mark 10 feet on your baseboard and line it up with the right edge of your template.

Now you run your router through the baseboard and it will be the right length in one cut!  This method works well on the softer woods, but it is hard on your router bit when you start on the likes of Maple or hard Oak. See answer #22.

*This page is always updated as more questions come in.

Have a Different Question?

Information Request Form

Name

Title

Company

Question

E-mail

Home Contact Us Coper Pictures The Prototype Help / FAQ Guestbook

Send mail to Information@TheCoper.com with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright © 2001 THE COPER